A Sherman's Fox Squirrel in a long leaf pine tree
“The wide world is all about you; you can fence yourselves in, but you cannot forever fence it out.” — J.R.R. Tolkien
Stretching across 110 miles from the St. Johns River to the Gulf of Mexico, the Marjorie Harris Carr Cross Florida Greenway is one of those unexpected surprises borne out of thwarted government planning.

What began as an ambitious public works project by the Army Corps of Engineers to build a barge canal on the Florida peninsula ended up becoming a protected green belt corridor and wildlife highway. Adding to the irony, it was named after conservationist Marjorie Harris Carr, co-founder of Florida Defenders of the Environment, who spearheaded opposition to the proposed canal and finally quashed it in 1971.

Marjorie Harris Carr

Marjorie Harris Carr
www.floridamemory.com

A Brief History of the Florida Canal

Phillip II of Spain
If you’ve never heard of the Florida canal, don’t worry; it was never built, despite the best efforts of its supporters. It was initially proposed by lawmakers and civic leaders in the early 1930s.

Well, wait, let’s back up a bit – the original proponent of a canal was Philip II of Spain in 1567. He wanted a shorter, less perilous route for his treasure hauls to get back home – which from a practical standpoint, makes a lot of sense; skirting the lower Caribbean meant a better chance of slipping past pirates and less risk of shipwreck. It never materialized, and over the next five hundred years the canal idea popped up every now and again, but was ultimately rejected because it wasn’t financially feasible or even possible with the engineering of the times.

In the early 20th Century, that changed, and the movers and shakers in Florida were lobbying hard for the federal government to open up the purse strings, pitching the project as a boon for economic recovery and rejuvenation. Called the Cross Florida Barge Canal, it was meant to stretch from the Gulf of Mexico to the St. Johns River, spanning most of Central Florida, and would have a state ‘Canal Authority’ to oversee and manage the whole thing. The final estimate in 1933 came in at $143 Million to design and construct – adjusting to $3,435,652,000.00 in 2024, a heart-stopping sum in either century.

President Roosevelt actually authorized $5 Million in 1935 (that would be $113,989,781.02 today!), and work began on the storied Canal. However, the very next year the Michigan Senator Vandenberg argued that nobody had asked Congress if this was okay. By then 13 million cubic yards of earth, forest, and rock had merrily been dug out, 5,000 acres of land had already been cleared for operations and platforming, and four bridge piers had been built. But they had also run out of Roosevelt’s generous $5M in startup costs, so work sputtered to a halt.

Long story short (and it’s a long story), the project lurched forward and backward at various intervals over the next forty years. It passed through the hands of three more US presidents, a federal injunction, one Presidential Executive Order, $71M, and a lawsuit filed by the Florida Defenders of the Environment –  spearheaded by the eponymous Marjorie Harris Carr – against the US Army Corps of Engineers

There’s a reason why the Greenway was named after her; she was arguably one of, if not the driving force opposing the Canal project. A co-founder of Florida Defenders of the Environment, she was a leading conservationist and a giant thorn in the side of industrialist development.

Carr helped write one of the most influential environmental impact statements that supported the Defenders and Environmental Defense Fund against the Canal. To the chagrin of the government, she marched into the Senate Committee on Environment and Public works and delivered her prepared statement decrying the adverse and damaging effects it would inevitably create. She was also instrumental in the protection and conservation of the Ocklawaha River Valley and of the removal of the Rodman Dam and Reservoir. Marjorie Harris Carr was a force with whom no one really wanted to reckon if they could help it.

Construction map of the Cross Florida Barge Canal

Construction map of the Cross Florida Barge Canal
www.floridamemory.com

Land clearing and controlled fires - Eureka, Marion County, Florida

Land Clearing in Eureka, Marion County, FL
www.floridamemory.com

When all was said and done, two sections of the canal were actually built – the route from the St. John’s to the Ocklawaha River, a little of the Ocklawaha route, and a tiny section near Lake Rousseau on the cusp of the Gulf –  but they’re all that remain of the now-defunct, epic project. The lands and existing structures were turned over to the State to use for conservation and recreation. The project was officially deactivated by Congress in 1990, and that was the end of the 500-year dream – but it spawned a whole new one.

The Cross Florida Greenway

It didn’t take long for the Greenway to be firmly established as a protected green belt corridor and part of the Florida State Parks system. With a staggering 70,000 acres and 300 miles of trails, it’s a mile wide in some areas and covers 110 miles end-to-end. It follows the original canal route starting at Palatka on the Atlantic Coast, to the St. John’s River to the Ocklawaha River valley, and finally on to the Withlacoochee River into the Gulf of Mexico.

It’s also a wildlife corridor – with the first land bridge spanning a major highway in the state, where any critter from raccoons to bears to humans can cross unhindered, with no danger to them or the drivers on I-75. Some parts of the Greenway still feature the original bridge locks from the ill-fated canal project. Over the years it’s evolved from what some might call a project of industrialized hubris into a haven of green, verdant nature and ecological diversity that offers a smorgasbord of recreation, hiking, camping and fishing opportunities for everyone to enjoy.

A doe and fawn on the cross florida greenway

Trails – Hiking, Horseback, and Biking

Women on horseback on a trail.
If you’re looking to mix your love of camping with a love of horseback riding, then the Greenway has what you need. Got a horse? Bring them with you! Equestrian camping is all about enjoying the ‘roughing it’ of camping (or glamping, depending on your personal tastes) along with miles of sweet, secluded trails you can explore together. The St. Johns River and Rodman Campground are designed with horses in mind, with high tie posts at each site and easy access to trails. They’re available on a first-come/first served basis, so make sure to check the reservation website to make sure to grab one. You can book as much as 11 months in advance if necessary.
The trails along the Greenway are also a playground for bikers of every persuasion – casual, cross-country, and mountain.  You can hit the pavement and loop around the campgrounds or go native on the natural tracks, from Ross Prairie, Shangri-La, and the Land Bridge Trailheads. All of those lead to a truly wicked, 63 mile network that have something for everyone’s skill level and pace. This network is so cool it snagged a Bronze Ride Center designation from the International Mountain Bike Association (IMBA) for its diversity; riders of varying abilities and levels from all over the world sing its praises for good reason. So strap on your helmet – safety first, and it’s required for anyone 16 and under – and go see what all the hoopla is about.

For those whose own two feet are the preferred method of exploration, there are lots of trails that take you through some really awesome landscapes and views. Hiking is enormously popular on each segment of the Greenway, where they can opt for paved paths, mowed grass or the Earth’s natural surface trails. Most of these are considered to be moderate in terms of difficulty, but be sure to pack plenty of water and snacks and check the Florida Trail Association for maps of the area where you want to delve.

You can meander along the Dunnellon Trail’s scenic beauty, or the Withlacoochee River multi-use path along the Rainbow River. There are parts of the Florida National Scenic Trail that passes through or nearby the Cross Florida Greenway, too, so you’re likely to encounter fellow explorers on your hike.

Water Activities

There’s no shortage of lakes and rivers to enjoy, with plenty of boat ramps for easy access. Whether you’re just interested in a lazy cruise, canoe or kayak, the Withlachoochee River is a good place to start, or you can head out from Inglis Lock to the Gulf – depending on your boat, of course. Make sure to stick to the clearly marked channels to keep your trip drama-free. The Withlacoochee has some rocky surprises and underwater stumps lurking under the surface, so be aware and watch carefully for the tides. Paddlers are also advised to be cautious and avoid getting stranded in shallow and tidally influenced areas, particularly at the southwest end of the Withlachoochee Bay Trail. From the Rodman Recreation area, canoeing and kayaking are popular on the 8 miles of the area between the Ocklawaha River and the Kirkpatrick Dam.
Kayakers on a Florida waterway.
Anglers are in for a treat, whether salt or freshwater fishing; the Withlacoochee Bay Trail and Felburn Park boast a variety of fish such as snook and tarpon near Inglis Bypass, or you can try your luck on Lake Rousseau for bream bass and catfish, and Rodman Reservoir is a hotspot for big trophy bass. For the fishermen and women who aren’t partial to boats, there’s a really good fishing spot and platform over on Eureka West that has proven extremely rewarding. Make sure to check the rules and that your fishing license is current – and if you don’t have one, you can get it here.

Birding and Wildlife

A barred owl snoozing along the greenway
With so much water, trees, and expansive natural landscape, this area is full of abundant wildlife, from hundreds of bird species, mammals large and small, and of course the reptiles for which Florida is somewhat famous. In certain parts of the Greenway, don’t be surprised to run into some white-tailed deer, fox, the Sherman Fox Squirrel and even the occasional bobcat.

River otters and manatees are busy in the rivers and lakes, along with gopher tortoise and the American Alligator – who also seems to sometimes be partial to that other Florida staple, the Golf Course.  You may also encounter different species of snake, both venomous and non-venomous; be sure to have sturdy footwear and a snakebite kit, especially if you’re actively planning to look for them.

The closer you are to the water, the more likely you’re going to see the explosion of bird population here – which makes it a treat for amateur and professional ornithologists. Look for wading birds along Felburn Park and Inglis Dam, including the great blue heron, egrets, osprey, the majestic bald eagles, and less-imposing, but still formidable wild turkeys.

Near the Ross Prairie and Shangri-La campgrounds, you might catch hawks, turkeys, and tiny songbirds. And don’t miss the Florida scrub-jay near the Land Bridge – they’re super friendly and only found here in Florida. Heading east, the Ocklawaha River area and Rodman Campground are hotspots for birding, especially with the St. Johns River close by.

Geocaching

This outdoor game has apparently morphed from more than a mere game to a passion of cosmic proportions for an increasingly large fan base. In a nutshell, it’s a big outdoor treasure hunt using hand-held GPS devices to find caches of goodies.  It’s inexpensive, interactive, spans the planet, and is a fantastic way of not just learning both local and global geography, but also of getting outside for some fresh air, exercise, and seeing what’s out there.
A geocache that has been opened

The big reward for geocachers is the thrill of the search and finding a new place they’ve never been – or even at times, places no one has been in a long time, if ever. There are numerous caches placed all along the Cross Florida Greenway, and locations are available at available geocaching websites. It’s designed to have minimal environmental impact, and conscientious gamers follow land-use ethics when playing it. For additional resources and guidelines, check out the Florida State Parks Operation Recreation GeoTour page.

If you’re interested in finding out more about the history of the Cross Florida Greenway, you can go to the Florida State Parks page, which will tell you more about the Canal project and how it ultimately gave way to the Greenway. There’s also a great page on the Florida Memory website with lots of archival photos, video and additional resources to soak in for hours. The Florida Defenders of the Environment has a thorough whitepaper on the subject, and the Florida Historical Society has an extensive history, complete with contemporary news reports.

It’s no stretch to say that Carr left a long-lasting legacy to not only the state of Florida, but also to the prosperity of the environment and crucial ecosystems.  This helped the land to thrive and develop as Nature intended, so that generations of people, from locals to tourists, will be able to explore and appreciate it for years – or even centuries – to come.

the cross florida greenway

If you are interested in exploring or purchasing properties in communities near the Greenway, here are some you can check out. Showcase has listings in some of these neighborhoods, and our agents would be happy to speak with you about discovering the right one for you.

Via Paradisus Ocala

High Point Ocala

Dalton Woods Ocala

Turning Hawk

Silver Springs Shores

Oak Run

Marion Oaks